Questions & Answers with the Hair Design Institute

You all had great questions for the Manhattan Beauty School, the Hair Design Institute. One of their instructors was very kind and took the time to answer all the questions that I received. Here’s the questions & and answers. Please let me know your thoughts!

1. What do you think about products like One n’ Only Color Fix?
(this is a favorite of mine as I’ve used it to remove permanent and semi-permanent dyes from my hair successfully).

I have not used this product, but I am interested in trying it. I have used Rusk/Elimin8 and acheived fair removal of direct dyes. In several instances where various students have used color removers (recommended by Sally’s associates) I have observed severe damage to the hair and serious irritation to the scalp.

Since both color removers and lighteners will distress the hair fiber in the process, the main consideration would be to determine how much (layered deposits)of what (oxidative dyes, direct dyes, box color, permamarker) can be removed without sacrificing the integrity of the hair structure and deciding the best way of going about achieving the desired final color result.

2. I’d like to know what kind of negative effects dyeing can have, and whether they can be amplified or mitigated in different kinds of dye…

A variety of beautiful haircolor effects can be acheived on hair that is healthy enough to withstand this
type of chemical treatment. Negative affects usually occur when important measures that should be
taken are omitted. The dye molecule found in haircoloring products are known to cause allergic reactions
in some people, ranging from mild to severe. The severity can be so great as to require a person to
seek medical attention and in rare cases cause death. A salon professional will be trained to follow
prescribed steps that will help ensure a clients well being and optimal color results. They will also be able to offer in salon treatments and reccommend home care that will not only help to strenghthen the
hair, but will help haircolor to last.

3. How have dyes and bleaches changed in the past decade?
The haircolor and lightening products that are available today are formulated using the latest
technology to provide conditioning during the color or lightening process. The availablity of ammonia
free color and lightening products are growing across the boards. Haircolorists have many options when
choosing the type of coverage they want to achieve (demi-permanent and translucent haircolor) and
how much speed and control they want when lifting. Not to mention the variety of powder lighteners
that can be used on-scalp and off-scalp.

4. how to prevent naturally straight hair from getting little (semi?)permanent “kinks”?
One way to prevent unwanted marks on the hair while styling is to apply a few drops of thermal
protective smoothing serum to the hair prior to blowdrying or thermal styling. The “kinks” could be
caused by the brush or tool “catching” at a particular point in a section of hair. Serum will provide slip
when styling and help to prevent (permanent) heat damage. Your salon professional can show you a few
techniques that will work for you.

5. how to keep the back of one’s neck neat at home (for short/masculine cuts)
Most salons offer a grooming service for those much needed in-between-haircut touchups. The cost is
usually a fraction of the haircutting fee and can typically be worked in without making an appointment.

6. my hair is naturally straight when dry, but when I get out of the shower it’s curly. I’ve tried everything to keep the curl–mousse while wet, gel, hairspray–but I either get wet look waves or it defies product and straightens.
You could be a good candidate for a few in salon protein treatments. The cleansing and conditioning
products you use should be formulated for curly hair. Usually the name of the product indicates the type
of hair they are intended for. Avoid products that use words like “smoothing”. To help make the curls
jump, gently towel blot as much water weight out of the hair immediately after showering. Then apply a
moderate amount of a curl defining gel and gently fluff and scrunch during the drying process.

7. I wonder if there is any way to protect hair from aging like we can do with skin. Supplements? Special shampoos/conditioners? Anything??
Products that contain a balance of protein and moisture, and also include a UV block can set the clock
back by decades. Try the Time Reset system by Redken (available at salons, ask your salon professional).

8. I have wavy/curlyish hair that I regularly wear straightened because I hate the way it looks naturally. I know this causes damage, but I’d like to know which method is more damaging, blowdrying or using a flat iron?
Damage can be prevented by using a good styling brush at a moderate heat setting while drying and
using proper ironing technique at the right temperature for your hair. Most stylist will be happy to teach
proper heat styling techniques to their clients. Use of conditioners and thermal protectors is a must.

9. What kind of ingredients should we be looking for in a good, moisturizing conditioner? Are there any common ingredients we should avoid like the plague?
Avocado oil, wheat oil, beruti oil, mango oil, lipids, ceramides, shea butter, jajoba oil…to name a
few, are ingredients that will help to maintain and restore the hairs natural moisture balance. Avoid
ingredients like alcohol as they can be very drying. The conditioner shoul have a higher ratio of moisture
than protein.

10. What ingredients to look for or stay away from is much more helpful than most stylist’s rhetoric “use salon products, drugstore stuff is crap.” because honestly, most brands on either end of he spectrum use very similar base formulations. I don’t want a marketing jingle, I want real education!
Well stated. Please be encouraged by the many salon professionals that are ready and willing to help
you to determine and select the appropriate hair and skin care products that will work for your needs.
Ask for a complimentary consultation in order to get a feel for the stylist. A stylist who will ask you
questions about yourself and your lifestyle will put your best interest first.

11. Any suggestions for excessive hair loss due to stress? I have coarse hair, not ‘thick’ & not a lot of hair, but the texture is coarse and wavy/curly. I do dye it, but I use the ammonia-free stuff and it’s just to cover those pesky grey hairs that have started popping up (hey, I’m a blonde, they sort of look like highlights, right?). Anyway, I’ve noticed that the underside of my hair appears smoother and healthier, whereas I tend to get frizzy on the top layers. I’ve tried several different products but perhaps I haven’t found the right one to help with the frizzies! Oh, my hair is long, down to the small of my back, if that matters.
Excessive hair loss should be addressed by you physician to determine the root (no pun intended) of the
hair loss problem and to devise a prescribed course of treatment, stress or otherwise. A good smoothing
serum can help to control frizz, as well as a good colorcare (uv blocking) shampoo and conditioner. Your
stylist can show you how to hold your dryer that will put a smooth shiney finish on top of your hair.

12. What’s the best way to keep bright red (not a natural orangish red) from fading too quickly since it’s notorious for not staying red for very long .
Reds fade because red dye molecules are large and are not able to stay in the hair as long therfore the
color fades. However, by using gentle shampoos and conditioners that are formulated to prevent color
fading and contain uv filters the color will hold up longer. Red color-enhancing shampoo will add a touch
of red back. To maintain a vibrant true red, schedule a color refresh service in between color retouches.

13. What’s the best way to fight dandruff when you dye your hair.
If your scalp is flaking after coloring your hair it might be an indication that you have a sensitivity
to haircolor. A salon professional can test you to see if you are predisposed to allergic reaction. Perhaps
getting a color foiling service, where the color is not applied directly to your scalp, would be a very good
way for you to have your hair colored.

14. What’s the best way to treat dry scalp when heavy-duty conditioners weight down fine hair?
A scalp treatment that includes a stimulating massage with penetrating oils would be so wonderful.
Followed by a mild shampoo and light conditioner.

15. What’s the best way to go from black to red or blonde?
Leave that one for the pros! The process of removing haircolor can be very damaging. Repeated
applications may be required to achieve the desired level of lightness. Special treatments should be
incorporated during the process. While going black to red may require fewer considerations, black to
blonde may actually destroy the hair in the process. If you know you are a person who likes to change
haircolor frequently, it would be best to consult with a haircolor specialist who can use color tools that
will allow you to leave color options open to changing haircolor without destroying your hair.

16. I wonder what’s the best way to maintain black-to-blonde bleached hair, especially considering touching up. I have really dark Asian hair and have gone blonde for 6 years, yet I end up with uneven zebra stripes way more than I like! >:
>It takes a skilled artist to design and maintain a beautiful and consistent highlight with movement.
The type of color result that you desire requires attention to detail and meticulous color placement by a
stylist who keeps good records and diagrams of the design.

17. My hair has a bit of a wave to it, and the finer hairs def curl (like in the front and back corners), but i cant get the rest of my super thick hair to do anything but lay flat. I cant even curl it with rollers, nothing seems to work. The last time I saw my stylist, I chopped off about 14 inches and she used a combination of products to get it to look wavy, but even that didnt last more than like an hour. I dont want to go the perm route, cause I see what perming did to my moms hair over the years. Shes been perming it so long, that she doesnt have to anymore, it just grows curly (strange, i know).
If only length was removed you would have lost some weight that could have been weighing down
your natural wave pattern. A design that incorporates some form of long layers would be the best way
to free-up natural curl. Sometimes wave patterns vary from one are of the head to another (not at all
strange). Permanent wave services have come a long way and do not even compare to the the perms
of yester-year. The right perm wave service will organize all of the curl on your entire head exactly
the way you desire without adversly affecting the hair or hair growth. Put yourself in the hands of a
competent chemical texture specialist, who will hear your concerns and will make the right choices to
give you a look that will work for you. Remember chemicals alter the hair (outside the scalp) and special
conditioning treatments will be neccessary to maintain the integrity of the hair. You can get beautiful
natural looking bouncy curls or flowing waves with salon perm services of today. You will need to be
educated by your stylist on how to condition and style your new look.

18. My hair is naturally straight and I have a hard time trying to get it to hold a curl/wave, so I’d love some tips on how to make curls/waves last longer. Because my hair is straight (and gets oily pretty quickly after showering), it is flat at the scalp, so I’d like some product recommendations to bring volume without adding weight. Lastly, I’d love some tips on how to air dry my blunt bangs and the rest of my hair so it still has some sort of style and volume rather than just flat straight. Thanks!
A perm wave that will give your hair a nice large curl or a body wave will be the best option for giving
you the hold and body that you desire. Choosing the right perm wave technique depends upon how much
styling versatility you desire. A chemical texture service will allow the natural oilyness of your hair will
work for you instead of against you. As for your natural hair, avoid using extreme temperatures on the
scalp as this will promote oil production. A cleansing/clarifying shampoo will remove excess oil build-up
and give the hair more body without adversely affecting the hair. Bodifying styling products like mousse,
root lifters, or light spray gels will work best. The right products that are formulated specifically for your
hair type and the right hair cut will transform your look. Your stylist show you!

19. I went through cosmetology school, so black to blonde is no big deal to me, but! We never worked with semi-permanent vegetable dyes like Manic Panic ans Special FX. How do they remove?! I know bleaching over isn’t a good idea, and colour removers really don’t touch them. Would love to hear an instructor’s take!
Think of it this way: Stains fade with repeated exposure to stain removers. Think of your favorite blouse
that spotted when you spilled “something” on it. Removing color depends on a lot of variables even with
direct dyes. Like how deep is the stain and what type of hair (fabric) you are working on. The main thing
is to maintain the health of the hair. A big question is: Was the hair lifted prior the black dye. Coloring
the hair chemically alters the hair. Even if the hair is colored back, that chemical change has occured.
Oils can help removed direct dyes. Results will always vary. Do a test strand (cosmo 101).

20. I am also really interested in what ingredients to look for/stay away from. My stylist always tells me I am using crap stuff, but is there a better/cheaper alternative to salon products?
Products that are formulated for your particular hair type and needs are worth the investment. Salon
professionals can help target your needs and help you find the right products which will save you time
and money in the long run. Open your cabinet and count the grocery store products that are in your
cosmetic graveyard because the product did not work for you. Ask your stylist for a sample and try it for
a few days.

21. Also, what are good products for oily hair? Sometimes hair products with moisturizers make it worse, yet I don’t want to dry my hair out.
Products that dry the scalp can cause the productionof more oil. You need a product that can break
carry away dirt and oil without drying the scalp and hair. Look for a light conditioner that contains a
blance of protein and moisture. Body building products designed to cleansing and style are fantastic.

22. Lastly, super easy styles that dress or spice up your look. I have always seen people throw up some cute messy buns, but mine always falls apart . Maybe easy curls as well.
Set up an appointment with a stylist. Let them know when you make the appointment that you are
coming in to learn a few styling tips. Bring photos!

23. Are salon brands really superior to say Suave, Pantene or something of that sort?
While grocery store products have had to step up and compete with salon products, you do not get the
expertise of the stylist that you receive along with using salon brands.

24. What’s the best way to protect hair from heat? And what are the best supplements for healthy hair?
Only use as much heat as is needed to achieve the result desired. Always use a thermal protector.

25. There is a method out in salons called “Diva Cut” made for curly hair specifically. This method cuts the hair dry curl by curl so you can see how the curls lay/behave and don’t end up with a too short or funky pyramid shaped cut. This service is VERY pricey and there aren’t many salons who have stylists trained to do this. What’s the best way (if any) you can direct a hairstylist to cut curly hair while wet? What should be avoided (razors, thinning shears etc)?
Look for a salon who’s staff is trained in texture cutting techniques. Most texturizing techniques
(razor…) applied in the right way, can accomplish similar results. This is what I call the art part.

26. What’s the best way to remove semi-permanent hair dyes?
The best way is to let semi-color fade out naturally which can take 6-8 weeks depending on the
frequency of washing. A salon professional might use a gentle lathering formula to speed up the release
of the color.

27. How do you feel about sulfate-free products?
Sulfate-free products—yeah! Great for people who are allergic to sulfite. A must if you have had a
Brazilian Keratin treatment.

28. My kid will graduate from high school this year, and he is thinking about cosmetology school to get a skill first, and then go on to college having a way to earn money. The job market here is still pretty impossible, even for older people.What advice do you have for him? Is this a workable idea?

Excellent idea! Getting a trade prior to college is the best plan that could be set. Think about the Pros and Cons;

Pros:
Obtaining a trade that you will have forever and can use anywhere. (will never be outsourced)
Having the ability to have a flexible schedule with good earning potential while studying at college
For the past 3 years in the country’s worst recession, Hairdressing/Cosmetology stayed a viable
professional with a steady up growth of jobs and earnings.
So many students do the reverse. Meaning their parents make them go to College first and waste
a year or two of time and tuition, only to have the student drop from college to attend a
Cosmetology school. Then they ultimately find their career of choice, making money, working in
a great environment and having fun.

Cons:
None!

29. My hair is an impossible to manage wavy/straight curly mess (I have super tight curly single hairs scattered all over my head), and am trying to that’s also thick. What’s the best way to manage it, or a cut that would make it easier to manage? I have to blow dry and then straighten (and then curl it if I’m in the mood for curls) to make it look normal, and not all bride of Frankenstein!
Visit a professional hair salon that is endorsed by Redken or research other reputable hair
products. Request a smooth down chemistry treatment. This treatment will even the porosity of the
hair with protein to strengthen. Followed by smooth down butter treat which is a deep moisturizer that
will help control the hair and allow easier manageability -keep layers long.

 

A Special Thank you to Aleya & the Hair Design Institute for taking the time to answer all of our questions.

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56 Responses to Questions & Answers with the Hair Design Institute

  1. Sarah March 30, 2011 at 8:12 am #

    It’s swell that they took the time to do this, but… is it just me, or did most of these responses not actually answer the question? :|

    • Amber March 30, 2011 at 9:19 am #

      I noticed that too, like she did not want to give away trade secrets, and wanted to support more of the salon industry, which is ok, but finding a really good stylist that you like and understands you is not easy.

      • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 9:59 am #

        I’m sending them feedback about that right now.

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:02 am #

      Some seem fine, others seem like a brush off with ‘talk to a stylist.’ I sent them an email stating disappointment with that.

      • Sarah March 31, 2011 at 7:48 am #

        It’s like, I thought we -were- asking to a stylist? But I’m glad you gave them feedback.

    • Vijaya March 30, 2011 at 10:38 am #

      Totally agreeing with you. A few were good answers, but the more specific questions don’t get very good answers at all.
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  2. sarah March 30, 2011 at 9:22 am #

    Some of the answers have WAY too much shop-talk in them. And I say that as someone who knows what they’re talking about.

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:00 am #

      I just sent them an email to that effect. What’s the point of asking me to get questions, and then making the answers ‘talk to a stylist’ when this was supposed to be questions WITH a stylist. Some answers were fine, but others were not.

      • sarah March 30, 2011 at 3:56 pm #

        Yeah, it’s kinda like they’re not answering the questions. There has to be some sort of explanation. Not everybody’s going to understand and “talk to a stylist” isn’t a good enough answer.

  3. Bonobo March 30, 2011 at 9:35 am #

    Okay, hopefully whoever asked question 25 sees this: curly hair + razor cuts = a hot mess the vast majority of the time. Curly hair has enough texture to it that tools designed to add texture can turn it into a giant ball of frizz sitting on top of your head. Trust me, I speak from years of awful razor cuts. I’m sure someone out there can cut curls with a razor and have it turn out beautifully; I’ve never met this person.

    If you can’t find a stylist willing to cut your hair dry (and let’s face it, most of them won’t), make sure they aren’t pulling your wet hair straight when they cut. This is how you end up with hair six inches shorter than you wanted because, big surprise, pulling it straight doesn’t take into account the curl when it dries. Other than that, the best advice I can give is to be very clear with your stylist about what you want out of your hair and to be patient in finding someone, it may take a few bad haircuts with a few different stylists until you find someone you like.

    Sorry for the tangent, but hopefully somebody found this helpful!

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:01 am #

      When I’d asked a friend of mine with curly hair, she said it’s important to find someone who knows how to cut with the curl pattern. She also said wet is bad.

    • sarah March 30, 2011 at 4:06 pm #

      That sent up a red flag for me, too. I don’t know much about cutting curly hair (like, next to nothing) but I do know you aren’t supposed to use a razor. Ever.

  4. Michelle March 30, 2011 at 11:31 am #

    I just bleached my hair blonde, and I was worried because whoever answered these questions said the hair could be destroyed in the process. Phyrra, I know you just did this, what do you think? I’m also curious about dyeing my hair back to a darker shade, since I don’t want to maintain the blonde color. Can I just pick any darker dye?
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    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 11:59 am #

      Make sure you do some deep conditioning. I did that and I feel like my hair is good. However, your hair can be damaged depending on how you bleached it (how long, the type, etc) and your hair type.

  5. Michelle March 30, 2011 at 11:32 am #

    Feedback on the article: I wasn’t crazy about how this person kept pushing salon products. I know they’re supposedly better, but I can’t afford to spend $15 on a bottle of shampoo!
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    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 11:55 am #

      I appreciate the feedback and I’m sharing that with them.

      Also, I am really liking the L’Oreal Ever pure, if you’re looking for a good, inexpensive shampoo and conditioner.

    • sarah March 30, 2011 at 4:00 pm #

      As a professional, I’m more likely to nudge you towards salon products, but I understand- I’m broke as Hell and have to stretch what I’ve got.

      I can recommend a few lines- Giovanni and Alba Botanica make fantastic organic products, and John Freida is a good line. Aveeno’s hair care line is nice as well- I’ve been using the nourish+shine conditioner and it makes my hair really soft and, yes, shiny! I would advise you to stay far, FAR away from Pantene, despite all the claims- it made my hair fall out in clumps when I used it years ago, and I’ve met people since who had the same problem.

      • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 9:57 pm #

        I always felt like Pantene left a film on my hair, so I didn’t personally like it on me.

  6. a girl named Sam March 30, 2011 at 11:56 am #

    While some of this is good advice, I don’t really understand why so many of the answers are just instructions to talk with a stylist. I know that each head of hair is unique, but the person answering these questions is a stylist and should be able to give at least general advice. I was also put off by all of the advice to go with salon products vs “grocery store” brands. There was really no mention of what ingredients to look for (even in the question that asked for them.) For instance, #9 was specific, but it was also fairly common knowledge (imo) and in #10 the question was more or less dismissed. Honestly, I quite like “grocery store” brands- Pantene is my all- time favorite.
    I hate to sound so negative! Thanks Phyrra for taking the time to put this together :)
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    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 11:57 am #

      I truly appreciate all of the feedback. Also, I agree, that it is disappointing to see so many answers with ‘speak to a stylist’.

  7. Michelle March 30, 2011 at 12:02 pm #

    I used Clairol’s Born Blonde Maxi. What kind of deep conditioner do you use? Is there one I can get at Walmart or Target?
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  8. Jadelyn March 30, 2011 at 12:31 pm #

    *Sigh* I did hope that a very specific “Which one is worse?” question would get a specific “This one is worse” answer, not “Your stylist can show you how to do *both* properly!” (I asked #8) >.<

    Also, not everyone can afford regular salon visits or has a stylist, which makes like 90% of this advice useless.

    I don't mean to be all negative at you, Phyrra, I know it's not your fault! Just a little frustrated with whoever answered these questions, is all.
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    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 12:34 pm #

      Yeah, I appreciate all the feedback. I’ve let them know via email that everyone is disappointed with the ‘speak to a stylist’ response that some of the answers got.

    • Sarah March 31, 2011 at 7:50 am #

      Yeah, it was that question in particular that made me go, “Wait. Wait. That was a ‘this or that’ question and you didn’t say either.” :/

  9. Jessi March 30, 2011 at 1:12 pm #

    Thank you for putting this together Phyrra! Don’t feel bad that it didn’t turn out the way you wanted. I, and I’m sure everyone else, really appreciate you taking the time to give us new and different helpful content. Like everyone else I am disappointed with the answers. I don’t have the time, money, or desire to go to the salon that often… if ever. The few times I have gone I have been extremely disappointed because I felt that I over-payed and didn’t get great results. I prefer to care for my hair at home and I know there are ways to do it because so many women do and end up looking fabulous (like you!).
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    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 1:15 pm #

      I’m very picky about which stylist cuts my hair and I saw one guy for 5 years before it just became really inconvenient to drive all the way to South Tampa to get my hair cut. I found a stylist very near to me that does a great job, so I’ve been seeing her. I don’t tend to get my hair colored at my salon because I feel I get better results at home and I dislike most redken products. In the past, redken dyes have washed out on me on the first wash! So I hate spending $180 on my hair to have it gone the first time I wash it. This is why I typically do the dye myself and let someone I trust cut it.

      Thank you for your feedback!

      • sarah March 30, 2011 at 4:04 pm #

        I HATE Redken dyes. I’ve had to use them ever since i started school and they’re… mediocre at best, awful at worst. I did like their Blonde Icing lightener, but the color is just crap, mostly.

        If I were to open a salon I’d probably use either Schwarzkopf or Vero K-Pak, or both. I’ve had fantastic results with those two lines and I’ve never been in a salon that used K-Pak and only one that used Schwarzkopf.

        • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 9:59 pm #

          You know what I loved when I had access to it? Wella and Magma by Wella. Those dyes were fantastic, though it’s been like 7 or 8 years since I last tried them. For permanent dyes, they really seemed to work with my hair.

          I don’t know why Redken dyes don’t work well in my hair but my hair doesn’t seem to hold them at all.

          I’ve never heard of Vero K-Pak or Schwarzkopf.

          • Amber March 31, 2011 at 1:03 am #

            I believe that the sally’s over by me in new port richey has wella hair color, if you are still interested in that line, you should check it out.

            • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:38 pm #

              Thanks for the tip! The Magma line was pretty awesome :)

          • sarah March 31, 2011 at 2:54 am #

            Wella has some of the most gorgeous reds on the market. If I was coloring someone’s hair red that’s what I would use.

            CHI makes beautiful reds as well- I used them for years, both the Hi-Lift (RR and RV) and the regular line (8RR) because it was a true, fire-engine red that I loved with my pale skin and grayish-blue eyes. The only problem is that their formula takes about a thousand years to rinse out- the last time I used the H-Lift I had to wash my hair (I wish I was exaggerating) 15 times with clarifying shampoo. I had a job interview and had to show up with dye still lingering on my hair and stains all over my ears and neck. That was the last time I ever used CHI.

            • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:39 pm #

              I went to a salon that used the Magma by Wella line for some AMAZING reds and purples in my hair.

              I’ve never tried CHI but sounds like they’ve got good stuff.

              • sarah March 31, 2011 at 2:12 pm #

                They do, but it’s not the be-all-end-all of product lines. People tend to talk up CHI and Redken in particular and they don’t really live up to expectations for me. Every line has its strengths and weaknesses but CHI is mostly just okay. Nothing special. I prefer Biosilk, myself…

                Their irons are nothing to write home about, either. I use a BabyLiss Pro titanium flatiron and have madly been coveting a GHD to use in my pro kit because it doubles as a curling iron and the newer models come with a DVD that shows how to use them, including how to do finger waves (something almost nobody knows how to do properly, even the old-school, massive piles of gel way of doing it). Either way, you get more for your money even though they’re crazy-expensive.

  10. Kira March 30, 2011 at 3:39 pm #

    I noticed that some of the comments were about stylists who cut hair when it’s wet and pulled straight instead of dry cutting. I just want to say that you don’t necessarily have to find someone who will cut your hair dry. I have thick, curly hair, so I understand the situation. My stylist understands how to work with wet hair, and I always got exactly what I wanted. If you’re nervous about this, just feel free to point it out. A stylist can’t really give you what you want if you don’t communicate with them.

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:00 pm #

      I would guess that your stylist does what my friend says needs to be done for curly hair? Cut with the curl pattern? And you’re entirely right, communicating with a stylist and saying ‘I want this’ and bringing pictures really helps the stylist to see your vision :)

      • Kira March 31, 2011 at 11:03 am #

        I’m not entirely sure he’s cutting with the pattern…I don’t really know much about hair (I’m most of the way through fourteen, so I’m still just messing around and learning my own tricks ^-^). My stylist has always washed my hair and combed it straight before cutting, and he works really well with pictures.
        This is off-topic but it’s really nice that you respond and interact with your followers. :) It’s nice to have my questions answered.

        • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:39 pm #

          Aww you’re so welcome Kira :)

  11. Ryou March 30, 2011 at 5:42 pm #

    I agree with many previous commenters. The answers are a tad disappointing. :/

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:10 pm #

      Thank you for the feedback Ryou.

  12. Logan March 30, 2011 at 8:02 pm #

    I absolutely disagree about the part where she said there are no cons to being a cosmetologist , if there were no cons, everyone would try to be one. I am a beauty school drop out at the moment, I want to go back to a different school because I love hair and make up but I am fully aware of these cons to the industry.

    Cons I personally know of:
    *Cosmetology is mostly hair with little focus on nails, skin and make up. Some think going to cosmo school will make them a better make up artist etc. It will not most likely, they teach basic make up and focus mainly on hair. (this is more of a warning to those thinking you’ll learn everything going to cosmo school)

    *You will work long hours. Your body suffers from years of repetitive movements and your feet/arms/hands may hurt every day after you’ve worked a full day. This comes with any job that is repetitive but especially in cosmo because you use your full body.

    *You might work odd hours or fewer ones until you have a built up clientele. It takes time to work up clientele, from months to years. Which equals time and effort. This can mean funny money also, not as steady as you’d like income until you have your client list built up.

    *You may have clients that are rude or unpleasant. Whether you like it or not, your going to have to listen to people pour their hearts out and give you more info about their personal lives then you’d like to know. This can be taxing if your going through a rough time (listening to other people be down brings you down even more).

    *Money and clients vary on the places you live, you can’t expect to charge 80 dollars for a hair cut if you live in a tiny town with under 10,000 people. It just wont fly very well most places.

    *Also about clients, you might not like someone but you have to be nice to them. Even if you’d rather they go somewhere else, if they are paying you to do a service, you have to smile and do your job otherwise you wont have too many clients for long. Unless someone is just flat out rude and awful you just have to deal with it.

    *Also, the average cost for cosmo school is 18k. And if you qualify for a pell grant you’ll only get the max of 10 to 11k grand. Then you have to pay off the 8k left using loans. These are 10 year loans that usually start 6 months to a year after you graduate. If you don’t pay they can hold your hours so you can’t get your liscense. I quit because the school I went to was about this much and the pressure of having to pay off 8k was too much for me. I want to go back to a farther away school that cost much less.

    *Schools can be shady. I’ve had personally experience with this. Shop around before you pick one and do price checking etc on the schools.

    With all this being said, its still a good industry to get into but no job or industry is con free, its just ridiculous to say there isn’t. Sounds like a silly pitch trying to recruit students. Even the school I was went told me the pros and cons of going.

    I don’t get why the person kept saying “go to a salon” etc. You can learn techniques on different things on youtube. Such as blow drying. Dying your hair at home(if your researched it well enough and follow instructions) should go fine, if in doubt DO seek a professionals advice and help.

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:11 pm #

      Thank you for sharing this! It’s valuable information.

    • sarah March 31, 2011 at 3:02 am #

      I agree. I’m about to start esthetics school because I couldn’t hack it as a hairdresser- I’d love to know more about styling but I could give two sh*ts whether I make a living cutting and coloring.

      I learned nothing in school. At all. The only thing they taught us was how to pass the State Board test.

      Hateful clients seemed to be thrown at me- old ladies that disapproved of my personal style, fussy men (!) that criticized the way I cut their hair when I gave them what they’d asked for , ethnic clients that assumed I couldn’t perform a relaxer because I was white (which I actually got quite good at, and I would still be comfortable doing it), you name it. At school and both my salon jobs, I had some truly awful experiences that made me want to give up on everything.

      So I’m learning a specialty now. Being an esthetician seems like it’ll be a lot less stressful. Plus I’ll get to learn more about doing makeup- my favorite thing in the world!

      • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:41 pm #

        I have to admit, I love going to see my esthetician and getting my brows and underarms waxed. It’s quick and I always feel good about it :)

        I’m sorry that you had such awful experiences. I’ve had some friends go through the Paul Mitchell school here in Tampa and they loved it. It made me wonder if it varies wildly by school/program.

        • sarah April 1, 2011 at 1:37 pm #

          It really does. If I’d been smart I would’ve stayed in FL and gone to the Aveda Institute in Tallahassee instead of move 6+ hours away from everyone I knew. I probably would’ve gotten an education.

          • Logan April 2, 2011 at 4:56 pm #

            I agree, you wouldn’t think picking a cosmo school would be so hard but it was, the school I picked did some shady things I didn’t agree with, that and coupled with facing 8 grand worth of debt and not even 18 years old was a thick glass of pressure on my chest. Being a cosmo isn’t easy or something to do as a side job while you finish “real” school. Some people don’t understand that and think oh I’m going to give up roughly a year of my life for a “play” profession. Best advice I can give anyone looking into cosmo schooling is making sure the school is within your price comfort and fits you right (look for a school with a decent buyers remorse clause, the one I tried had a 5 day one instead of the usual 3 *that I think is required by the law not 100% sure* before it ate at my grant money) All I lost was 120 dollars (which is still not that great to lose but compared to owing 8 grand, it’s not that bad) for my contract and my temp permit to practice at the school. And Sarah I hate that for you, your school should have protected you from hateful clients. Being slightly rude or blunt is one thing but if they carried on and tore you down and an instructor was around they should have handled it and told them you were doing the best to your abilities and leave it at that. One instructor I had said, when you go to a cosmo school dont expect perfection and if they mess up they mess up, this a school after all they are learning. Thats why everything is roughly half priced vs a regular salon. If you want it done perfectly then go to a regular salon and pay full price for it. Do go to cosmo schools for manis or pedi’s though, they give roughly an 5 to 8 min massage per hand or foot plus parafin (at least at mine they did) and its pretty cheap *think 10 or 20 dollars? not 100% sure* But fair warning, the polish might not be amazing especially if they are a cosmo and not studying for nail tech.

    • Amy April 13, 2011 at 10:15 pm #

      I agree. You also have to face the fact that in that industry, cattiness is rampant. When I was in school I had things come up missing (a ripped cape, seriously, plus combs etc) and saw other students have much more expensive stuff stolen (flat irons, etc). I didn’t finish the program but some of the people I know of that did, said they hated the atmosphere of where they ended up. One salon chain I know of expects you to perform 8 minute hair cuts. One of the women I still keep in contact with said they were just downright mean to her at this chain.

      I’m 13k in debt for a program that I didn’t finish and even if I had, this area is turning out more graduates than there are jobs available. Many of the women who graduated before me have already had positions at 2 or 3 salons because of the way the other stylists/company treated them. It’s not something you just jump into at all.
      Amy recently shared..Birthday shoes part deuxMy Profile

  13. Laura March 30, 2011 at 9:52 pm #

    I liked your response Logan. I was reading the article and also called shenanigans on the “no cons” to cosmetology. I just finished getting a esthetics license and that focuses more on make- up than cosmetology (I also rarely like doing my own hair, let alone anyone else’s). But even then, not as much as one would think because in a salon, make- up applications don’t bring in as much money. They focus on facials and waxing because that brings in customers on a regular basis, while make-up is reserved for special occasions. There is a misconception that this is an easy field, while those that are in it know that it takes a lot of hard work!
    And thanks Phyrra for saying you are emailing them. It’s a great blog and doesn’t deserve half-assed effort! :)

    • Phyrra March 30, 2011 at 10:11 pm #

      Thank you for the feedback! I appreciate it.

  14. Mika Chan March 31, 2011 at 12:04 am #

    Wow……

    Well thank you Phyrra, for trying to put this together for us. I was excited to read this.

    However, it was very obvious that this “stylist” did not actually READ some of these questions. For instance, #16. I was actually looking forward to this answer, because I was a sufferer of the “zebra stripe” in the past. S/he took it to mean that she was actually TRYING to look that way, instead of realizing that she was trying to address the problem of them being created :(

    I understand that the Hair Design Institute may have done this to get in touch with the “blogosphere” and help more people learn about them. However, I feel that they could have at least sent a representative that actually cared to answer the actual questions being asked. =(

    • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:42 pm #

      I got the overall impression that the instructor who answered the questions didn’t feel that they could accurately answer some of the questions and that when they said ‘talk to a stylist’ it’s because different hair types/lifestyles require different products. BUT, I wish that the instructor would have said ‘for X type of hair, this is the most common option’ to make it a little less vague.

      • Mika Chan March 31, 2011 at 12:47 pm #

        Right, I can understand that. However, like I said, with some of the questions it was like s/he never actually even read them.

        • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:49 pm #

          I agree :( and it makes me sad that that is the case.

  15. DaenaCat March 31, 2011 at 7:56 am #

    Ugh, stock answers and way too many “talk to your stylist!” answers. My immediate thought was this:

    Phyrra swings… Hair Design Institute *evades*

    Glad you’re on top of it, though!

    • Phyrra March 31, 2011 at 12:43 pm #

      LOL! Love the imagery.

      I think from talking to different people, the instructor just didn’t feel it was responsible to answer some of the questions with more details. But I wish that he/she would have said ‘for the most common hair type, X is what is likely to be the best choice’ or something like that.

  16. Vega March 31, 2011 at 1:04 pm #

    I was most disappointed with the answer to #28. If you think working at a salon is something you can do on the side to make some money while you’re going to “real school,” you’re mistaken. Long days, weird hours and few breaks are all known factors and it’s totally disingenuous to hide that reality behind “most people waste time going to college only to drop out and go to hair school instead so your kid is really smart and responsible for wanting to start his career without wasting all that time going to college first!”

    If your contact had actually read the question, she would have realized that suggesting someone sink thousands of dollars into becoming qualified to do something they intend to treat like a part time job until they can get into something better is a bad idea. And she should have shown a little respect for her industry by making the point that salon workers have to be very committed to their craft and it takes a huge investment of time and effort (and funds) in order to make any real money at it. It’s not something you should jump into just because it sounds like it pays better than flipping burgers.

    Other than that, thank you muchly for organizing this Q&A and I wish you luck with finding more informative contacts in the future.

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